I can help you understand the difference between the latch lock style for couplers and the collar lock style.
First let's talk about the latch style. If installed properly this style of coupler will work great. Determining if it is latched properly is a little more visually difficult than the collar style though. If properly installed the bottom of the latch mechanism should sit against the ball with no space. If your coupler is designed for a 2 inch ball size, you should be using... view full answer...
If you are having trouble unlocking the Master Lock Trailer Coupler Lock # ML389DAT then I recommend using a spray lubricant like WD-40 to help loosen up any dirt or grime that may have gotten in the lock. Let the spray sit in the lock for a few minutes and then try operating it again. If this still doesn't fix the problem then you may need to have a locksmith take a look at it. view full answer...
The design of the Reese Goose Boxes like # RP85FR prohibits the use of locks designed for standard gooseneck couplers. They cannot grab onto the coupler like they are supposed to.
To secure the trailer a wheel lock such as # WI490 or # RA-25 or something similar is recommended instead. I have linked some videos on these locks for you. These lock the wheels of the trailer instead which is a very effective theft deterrent. view full answer...
Check the trailer coupler to see if it is meant to take a 2-5/16 inch ball. If so then the 2 inch ball you have will not be large enough and this issue could keep happening. If it does take a 2 inch ball then either the coupler was not fully secured or something needs to be adjusted with the coupler. Most couplers will have a nut to tighten or loosen that is accessible on the bottom.
On some vehicles there is a specific distance the ball has to be from the rear axle of the tow vehicle.... view full answer...
We have a few things to try so you can unlock your Fastway Universal Trailer Coupler Lock DT25013KA using your original key:
Try inserting the key and then lightly tapping the back of the key with a rubber mallet to make sure it's fully seated. If that doesn't work then use a silicone-based lubricant spray like part # RM-747 to help loosen things up (don't use WD-40 as that could mess things up internally). And if that doesn't work then try hitting it with the spray and then also using... view full answer...
When you back a surge brake trailer up a small incline, the weight of the trailer compresses the surge actuator which applies the trailer brakes.
To prevent this from happening you can use free-backing brake assemblies that will provide a bit of initial resistance, but will then let loose and allow you to back the trailer. Depending on the make and model of your coupler, you might be able to install an electric brake lock-out solenoid that would tie into the reverse lamp circuit of the... view full answer...
Are you certain that you have the 6-way connector, like part # PK12720 with the 6 round pins? Or do you have the 7-way connector like part # PK11893 that features 6 blade-type pins with one connector in the center? The two can sometimes be confused.
There are two possible reasons why the brakes are locking up on the trailer. If you have a surge or hydraulic coupler on the trailer, such as those typically found on boat trailers, the hydraulic brakes will lock up when the vehicle reverses... view full answer...
If you're having issues with the key turning all of the way to release your Master Lock coupler lock, like part # ML389DAT, then I recommend using some spray lubricant like the LubriMatic White Lithium Grease # L11354 to help loosen up any dirt that might be in the lock.
Spray it and let it sits for a minute or two and then with the key inserted lightly tap the key with a rubber mallet to make sure it's fully seated. If this doesn't work then you'll either need to drill out the lock or... view full answer...
Usually, when you try to back a trailer with a hydraulic surge actuator uphill, the coupler will compress and apply the brakes unless you 'lock out' the coupler by moving the lever on the side of the coupler to the 'Backing Position' as shown in the photo I provided.
If your Dad has never had to use the lock out on the coupler before, I'm thinking that maybe the trailer used to have what're called free-backing brakes before they were recently serviced. Did the shop who serviced the brakes... view full answer...
When you back a surge brake trailer up a small incline, the weight of the trailer compresses the surge actuator which applies the trailer brakes.
To prevent this from happening you can use free-backing brake assemblies that will provide a bit of initial resistance, but will then let loose and allow you to back the trailer. Depending on the make and model of your coupler, you might be able to install an electric brake lock-out solenoid that would tie into the reverse lamp circuit of the... view full answer...
Usually if you can move the tow vehicle and trailer to level ground, you can uncouple. However, sometimes you have to be on less than level ground. If the coupler will not come off of the ball in this situation, you can use the trailer jack to separate the coupler from the ball.
What is happening is the pressure from being on an incline is putting enough force on the ball to make uncoupling very difficult. What you can do to help prevent this in the future is to make sure to properly... view full answer...
It sounds like you have surge brakes on your EZ Loader Duel axle trailer for your 1989 Bayliner. If your brakes are locking up when trying to move forward, it sounds like there is a mechanical error happening and it is most likely happening in the coupler. Something like a sticking piston in the wheel cylinder keeping pressure on the brake shoes or a plunger in the master cylinder that is not releasing.
There is a shock like the # T2336200 in the coupler to help the coupler return to position... view full answer...
This may sound silly but its worth checking: is the ball you are using too large for what the coupler requires? Or is the coupler damaged at all? You may need to look up inside the coupler to see if there is any corrosion that is binding things up.
On many couplers there are some adjustments that you can make. There is usually a nut that holds on a wedge that makes contact with the ball. Adjusting that nut up or down as needed could help.
Using ball grease such as # 58117 does make it... view full answer...
Without any background information, it will be hard to say what you have going on.
Have you recently replaced the coupler or master cylinder? Did the brakes previously function correctly, but are recently locking up when the vehicle is placed in reverse?
Given the information available, my best guess is that either your reverse lock-out solenoid is faulty, one of its wires has become disconnected, or the signal from the reverse light circuit on the vehicle is not reaching the solenoid... view full answer...
The first thing that comes to mind is that there might be some debris or corrosion that's preventing the latch handle from fully engaging when pulled down. I recommend giving the coupler a thorough inspection, both on top of the unit around the latch and inside the coupler, cleaning out as best you can any debris and corrosion that could be causing the issue.
If this doesn't resolve the problem then something may have gotten bent somehow on the mechanism. I can't be sure as to what would... view full answer...
When the brakes lock up, are you backing up a small hill or a rise? I'd be willing to bet you are.
It sounds like your surge coupler isn't equipped with a reverse lockout. A reverse lockout will prevent the coupler from compressing and actuating the brakes when you back the trailer. There are a couple possible solutions for this.
Depending on the surge coupler you have, it could be possible to install an electric lockout like part # T4748800 for Titan or Dico surge couplers or # DM11993... view full answer...
Only 2 inch and 2-5/16 inch balls are used for weight distribution. So if you are currently using a 2 inch ball you cannot go down to a 1-7/8 inch ball because the smaller size is inadequate for use with weight distribution. Also the coupler requires a certain ball size so using a ball that is too small can cause the trailer coupler to pop off of the ball when traveling.
There are a few reasons why a coupler can be difficult to unlatch from a ball. If there is tension on the ball then... view full answer...
Generally the Demco A-Frame Trailer Coupler w/ Jack Hole part # DM14793-81 is very easy to release. There is a lock/pin hole located just under the latch that may have a pin in it preventing it from opening.
I have linked a photo showing exactly where the hole is on your coupler. view full answer...
Surge brakes use a hydraulic actuator to push fluid to the cylinder piston to activate the brake shoes on drum brakes or brake pads on disc brakes. This pressure should only be applied when weight is pushing against the hitch ball, so no pressure when moving forward and pulling the trailer.
With brakes dragging and locking up when going forward, there has to be something mechanically incorrect in the system like a sticking piston in the wheel cylinder keeping pressure on the brake shoes... view full answer...
There will be a little bit of play with any hitch ball and coupler combination just because there needs to be some room for the trailer coupler to rotate, however it sounds like you might be getting a bit more than normal. I recommend first just making sure that you are using a compatible hitch ball size for the coupler on the trailer. Usually the size ball a coupler works with will be stamped underneath the coupler itself. Make sure it is compatible with a 2 inch hitch ball like what you... view full answer...
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